ISSEY MIYAKE S/S 1991 Documented Runway ‘Dinosaur’ Sleeves Black Silk Jacket

The twin of this jacket walked the runway in several colours and fabrics. Versions of it are part of various fashion museums worldwide such as The Costume Institute of The Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York City and the Powerhouse Collection of the MAAS Museum in Sydney. The linen model was photographed by renowned fashion photographer Irving Penn and is shown in the book “Irving Penn regards the work of Issey Miyake” published by Bulfinch. Please see the reference pictures and send us a note for a video sequence of the fashion show.

Designed under the eye of Issey Miyake himself this stunning black silk jacket features a simple yet complex cut based on origami Japanese folding techniques. Both front and back are expertly pleated. Yet the star of this design are the long sleeves that are folded and pressed in such a way to create a zig zag line along the top of the sleeve which is reminiscent of a dinosaur’s jagged back.

The use of silk gazar is the perfect choice for this garment as the fabric combines qualities of delicacy with a gentle stiffness which is required to maintain the folded fabric form. The jacket is unlined and buttons up the center front. Labelled “Issey Miyake” and tagged a Japanese vintage size M.

The jacket was purchased in 1991 by my couture client in Munich, Germany, and has not been on the market prior to this.

Excellent vintage condition.

Bust: 104 cm – 40.94″
Waist: 82 cm – 32.28″
Length: 53 cm – 20.87″

Measurements for bust and waist are taken flat across from side seam to side seam and then DOUBLED.

Modern Sizing Equivalent: S-M

Reference Photos: 1-5: S/S 1991 Issey Miyake runway shots / 6: Irving Penn for the book “Irving Penn regards the work of Issey Miyake”, Bulfinch.